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webmasterphbb1
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Outboard - Inboard

Post by webmasterphbb1 »

outboard-inboard
Post by paulgemmell » Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:49 pm

Hello Everbody-
First post, so here goes-
I've had Sable 11 (Sail 158) for about a year now and just started some refurbishments. Here's some images-

https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/ ... 4/img-2850

Just wondering if there would be any advantages of cutting out part of the transom and a hole in the hull stern to move my outboard, inboard.
I realise this would be a big job-a lot of restructuring and glass work. Any comments would be great
Cheers,
Paul
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Vic
Posts: 618
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by Vic » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:25 pm

It would bring the outboard controls within easy reach .

OTOH you would end up with the noisy thing in the cockpit with you. Exhaust fumes might be a problem too.
It would be difficult if not impossible to devise a system that allowed you to lift or tilt the prop clear of the water when sailing unless you opted for a sort of half way arrangement that allowed you to clamp the outboard directly on to the transom.
Vic
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paulgemmell
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by paulgemmell » Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:47 pm

Thanks Vic,
Aye, thanks for the feedback.
I think your probably right a lot of work for a compromise.
Cheers,
Paul
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Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging

Post by webmasterphbb1 »

Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Post by paulaston » Fri Aug 12, 2016 4:22 pm

Hi All,

I need to replace the forestay, which runs through the furling roller for the jib, because it has frayed where it attaches to the top of the mast and approximately half of the wire strands have snapped. II will try to attach a photo. I also need to ascertain if this need to be done professionally or if it is something that I can safely do myself.

I also need to replace the jib halyard, which snapped on Windermere last week; the main halyard and the jib sheets, which are very old; and part of the main sheet locking mechanism, which appears to have been bodged.

I am also unsure as to exactly how the rigging should be set up, particularly in relation to the jib furling mechanism. Also, only the approx 8mm main halyard runs through the mast; whereas the snapped jib halyard was a 4-5 mm rope running outside over over a pulley at the top of the mast and there is an unused set of pulleys inside the mast and an unused pulley at the top of the jib furling roller. The topping lift is the same 4-5mm rope type. All in all, a complete overhaul is required!

I'd be grateful of any guidance please. I have purchased the owners manual from the shop, but it doesn't contain any such information.

I could do with knowing the lengths, gauges and specifications of the stays, halyards and sheets; and any information about the setup of the rigging in general please, including what deck/cabin roof hardware should be in place (for example, there are currently no jammers or suitable cleats near the cockpit). I also could do with some new sails at some point; and I at least need a handle for the main sheet roller reefing or I might need to consider replacing it with slab reefing.

This is for "The Great Escape", sail number SW226.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Regards,

Paul.
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Vic
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:04 pm

It is difficult to answer your questions without knowing exactly what mast and reefing spar you have have or if any modifications have been made

Standing rigging.

The original was all 3mm.
Many, myself included have ungraded the forestay to 4mm.. The reefing spar seems to revolve more freely on the larger wire.

I am assuming you have the original Cooney reefing spar as I have no 1st hand experience of any other

The forestay can be replaced as a DIY job although I had mine done "semi professionally" by someone at the yard who had all the necessary equipment and know-how.

Replacement top and bottom bushes for the spar can be bought from the Sea Wych shop. I would thread the new wire through from top to bottom as there may be an intermediate bearing immediately above the central joining plate, but perhaps not in a boat as early as no 226. If you attempt to push the wire through from bottom to top you may push this bearing if it is there up to the top of the spar.

If you are using Talurit splices note that there should be a bearing block fitted over the bottom ferrule for the spar bottom bearing bush to rest on. It may not be necessary with swageless fittings.

Note that if you have the original SS Spars mast it originally had swept back spreaders with the cap shrouds going to the after most attachment points on the deck while the lowers were in line with the mast. Replacement masts usually have squared off spreaders and two pairs ( aft and forward ) of lowers

Running rigging
If you have a Cooney spar the halyard runs over the sheave at the top ( The unused one you mention I guess) and back down to the top of the drum. I have cut my halyard in two. so that the tail can detached ( otherwise attached with a double sheet bend) once the sail is hoisted.
Most other replacement spars will have the halyard attached to a swivel at the peak of the sail and fall internally, exiting via a sheave near the foot of the mast.
6mm quite adequate.

The main halyard would originally have fallen internally, exiting via a sheave at or near the base of the mast.

6mm is adequate for both foresail and mainsail halyards. In fact 8mm is too large for the original exit sheaves.

The original topping lift was lighter than 6mm ( 5 mm???)


The building instructions, which are available from the Sea Wych shop, contain the original rigging instructions The drawings which came with the building instructions can be found on my Photobucket account at http://s50.photobucket.com/user/Vic43/l ... t=9&page=1


Original sheets were 10 mm.

Two ordinary two horned cleats were originally supplied for the foresail sheets to mount on the outside of the coamings. I have fitted a pair of lateral Clamcleats on top of the coamings

Image

The original bottom main sheet block incorporated a simple jaw cam cleat. I added a fairlead.
Vic
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paulaston
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by paulaston » Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:32 am

Many thanks again Vic - lots for me to take in there, I will study this properly later. My thinking at the moment is that I need to buy the bushes from the SWOA shop and have a 4mm stay professionally replaced using the new bushes by someone suitably qualified with the correct tools and materials.

I have the build instructions, which I purchased from the Sea Wych Shop. The diagrams were not included with that document and the shop do not appear to have immediate access to copies of these, so thank you for providing them.

I don't know whether or not I have a Cooney spar or not. Here is a link to some pictures of each end of the forestay:

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/paulaston7046/library/

From these pictures, is it possible to work out what setup I have and as to whether or not it has been modified? I can take more pictures later if needed. Apologies for the background - a frayed stay doesn't stand out too well with grass as the background!

I have also included a picture of The Great Escape, SW226. What I don't know is if this is the correct sail number or not. It is the sail number on the main sail, but the previous owner was unable to confirm whether or not the sails he provided as part of the sale are the original sails. The previous owner had registered with the Sea Wych Owner's Association under this sail number and I have taken over that registration. Does the picture at the above link provide any indication as to whether or The Great Escape is the age indicated by the sail number? And is it possible to ascertain what age that is? Unfortunately I do not have any history prior to the previous owner.

Thanks,

Paul.
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Vic
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:53 pm

I can tell from the pictures that you have a Cooney reefing spar. No doubt about that. So the instructions for the halyard to return down the spar to the second fixing point on the top of the drum apply.

The top and bottom bushes will have to be drilled out if you fit a larger diameter forestay. Similarly the split bearing block if you use a Talurit splice.

I notice from the pictures of the rigged boat that the boom appears to droop ! This suggests that the mast is raked aft. It should be vertical. Perhaps if you shorten in on the bottle screw maybe also fit a smaller shackle ( or better a toggle) and at the same time extend the backstays with toggles if necessary you will be able to get the mast upright.

As for the sail number. 226 would have been a boat with a white hull and grey superstructure. If yours is in fact red and white then it is much later than 226. I don't know exactly when the colour scheme changed. During the high 300s I think although the changeover may have been blurred by the fact that the sail numbers were not issued in strict order , or so rumour has it.
Vic
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christopherphillips
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Post by christopherphillips » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:50 pm

Inside My Cooney Spar

I wanted to change my cable to 4mm but I wanted to know what was likely to block me inside. I drilled the rivets but could not part the two halves without potential damage so I shoved my camera probe up both ends and sure enough the bearing mentioned by Vic was certainly there at the top end quite secure. I took another photo from the bottom and it shows the stainless sleeve holding the two halves together....The small object is one of the drilled rivets that I will flush out. My sail is SW416
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Goose Neck and Some

Post by webmasterphbb1 »

Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Thu Aug 31, 2017 11:44 am

Hi All New Member here looking for advice/assistance, possibly bits and bobs :D

I have just picked up a new project, Seawych (Puffin) if anyone has any history of her kindly share as nothing is currently known as it was left for scrapping with no documentation etc.

Literally just got her so will be cleaning from tip to toe as first job just to see whats what!

Bit of a mess but nothing that hopefully can't be sorted touch wood.

Ideally a basic guide book with lots of diagrams and ideally photos would help considerably and save a lot of guessing.

Most of the Rigging appears to be there less a few deck turn buckle screws (if not a bit tatty), but i am in need of some close up pictures of how the boom attaches at the goose neck area it just doesn't look correct. Well at least to my untrained eye. Looks like a square pin from the mast slides into the boom but it has no retaining bolts just an empty hole on boom with a large diameter screw thread, nothing to go into it?? Odd.

Also it has sails but no idea if they are correct the main has no cars are these readily available to be added?

Inside is basically an empty shell but the main hull appears water tight although I guess until she is finally put into water we just won't know 100%.
Small steps but determined to get her back in the game within a reasonable budget.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions good or bad rgds
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Vic
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Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:51 pm

Hi,
The owners manual(on line on the website) will be useful, maybe also the building instructions.

I have photos which will help answer some of your questions but stuck in hospital at the moment

Will get back to you when I can
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Fri Sep 01, 2017 7:31 pm

Vic
Thanks for reply.
I've had a look at the online manual and can't find the goose neck pictures that I definitely need.
Photos would be great or a day out to have a look at a finished boat itself. I've been trawling marinas near me to no avail.
Hope you have a speedy recovery.
Rgds Steve
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Vic
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Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:39 am

Hi again

The photos of the goose neck fitting below might help but I don't recognise anything from your description

Regarding the sail. Many boats had mainsails with a bolt rope rather than sail slugs (Mine does not have slugs) You could fit the sail with slugs if you feel it would be any advantage ( I don't) . They are readily available. IIRC the smallest of the Alan range at http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item_det ... d=29&id=92 are the right size

Image


Image
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:49 pm

Thanks
Mine definitely doesn't look like that but can't say for certain until I can get to the boat in a cpl of weeks. But will definitely post pics for comment.
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Mon Sep 18, 2017 3:18 pm

Vic

please see pictures of the boom end and metal rod that slides into boom from mast just looks odd to me but can't seem to find any pictures elsewhere

rgds Steve
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Vic
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Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:02 pm

It rather looks like the original Sea Wych boom from which the Barton roller reefing gear and goose fitting have been removed and a dinghy type reefing system fitted. Maybe the old one failed resulting in the rather unsatisfactory arraignment you now see. I take it that pin and the hole in the end fitting are square.
I suggest you have reefing points fitted in the sail adopt some form of slab reefing.
I converted to slab reefing years ago, although I maintain the roller gear in working order just in case

Sorry if replies are slow coming. I find myself in University College London Hospital for perhaps a lengthy stay
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:49 pm

Any idea on where I would get a new setup to replace the one that is on this boom? I guess they're not too common!!
Rgds Steve
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Vic
Posts: 618
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Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:12 am

Sorry not to have replied sooner . Something seems to have gone wrong with my email notification of new posts .

Equally sorry I cannot help.

Keep a look out for a boom with all the fittings for sale by someone who has re rigged.

Boat jumbles perhaps. anywhere that sells second hand gear, corners of boatyards or anywhere an old boom might have been abandoned.

Put a wanted ad' in the magazine.
Vic
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