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Red Seawych sail maintenance
Post by paulaston » Sat May 11, 2019 8:51 am

Hi All,

My Seawych 19, The Great Escape, has red sails that are in reasonable condition, but that are a little faded, particularly the jib, where it is exposed when furled.

Can anyone suggest a good way of cleaning the sails and restoring the colour please? Are there any products that anyone can recommend please that can help restore the colour and provide future protection?

Thanks.

Paul.
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Vic
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Re: Red Seawych sail maintenance
Post by Vic » Sat May 11, 2019 10:06 am

Your headsail should be protected by a sacrificial UV strip

I suspect it will be difficult if not impossible to effectively restore colour to polyester sail cloth but see what replies I get to my query here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.ph ... ost6783842

Gentle washing with a mild detrgent on a clean flat surface is probaably the way to DIY cleaning,

Other wise try yournearest sailmaker... they usually send sails away for cleaning to a specialist sail laundry
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Re: Red Seawych sail maintenance
Post by paulaston » Sat May 11, 2019 11:50 pm

Thanks Vic

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Sails
Post by glynwilliams » Sat May 11, 2019 9:22 am

IMG-20190502-WA0000.jpg
IMG-20190502-WA0000.jpg (137.49 KiB) Viewed 27 times
Hello,
I am making progress "Wychway To" has now been launched,
mast stepped,standing rigging checked.New electrics fitted
I have had to have new UV strips fitted and other
remedial work done to the main and the gjib a first class
and economic job done by Lonton and Gray in Burnham on Crouch
but I am now ready to fit the sails,weather permitting.
Can I ask is there any potential problems,pitfalls to avoid or little
tips and hints that will make my life easier.I will have to do this on my own,
so if there is any knowledge out there please share it with an elderly novice.
I have tried to attach a picture,she is a good looking craft
regards
Glyn
"Wychway To"
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Re: Sails
Post by Vic » Sat May 11, 2019 7:13 pm

I cannot think of any problems or pitfalls , but it's a long time since I hoisted my sails for the first time.

I trust you made sure all the halyard sheaves rotated freely before you stepped the mast
You may find McLube SailKote or a ptfe spray from Toolstation etc on the luffs and mainsail foot will assist.

Good luck
Vic
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Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19
Post by paulaston » Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:12 am

Hi All,

I need to paint below the waterline on my recently acquired SeaWych 19, The Great Escape.

The previous owner advises me that, "All antifoul has been removed to gel coat& 3 coats of Flag Primer applied".

This is a topic I have no experience of. My initial assumption is that I don't need antifoul paint because, other than a few weeks here and there, she will be stored out of the water on the trailer, so I have started looking primarily for some sort of high gloss hard wearing white marine top coat paint that states it is for use below the waterline.

But I have started to research this and there are a bewildering range of paints out there. In addition, I'm not sure if the stage of preparation that my boat has already means that I have to follow one course of action or another.

So any guidance from the members of the forum as to what to do next, what products to consider and where to source them from would be most welcome please.

Thanks in anticipation.

Paul.
Last edited by paulaston on Wed Mar 20, 2019 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19 trailer stored
Post by Vic » Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:51 pm

Presumably that is Flag grey multipurpose metallic primer and you now what to paint it for cosmetic reasons

It is intended as a tie coat or a barrier coat before applying an antifouling paint.

I think I might apply a single generous coat of a hard type of antifouling such as Interspeed


See what suggestions turn up here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.ph ... ost5756903
Vic
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19 trailer stored
Post by paulaston » Sun Jul 10, 2016 11:22 am

Hi Vic,

Thanks for that and for posting this on ybw.

I have emailed the previous owner to ask what sort of flag primer he used, but I think you are right, it is most likely to be flag grey multipurpose metallic primer.

So Im going to go for white International Interspeed Ultra 2, which sounds like it should be a good solution for all purposes!

Thanks,

Paul.
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19 trailer stored
Post by paulaston » Mon Jul 18, 2016 8:21 pm

Two coats of Dover White International Interspeed Ultra 2 applied over the weekend and it's looking good
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19 trailer stored
Post by paulaston » Wed Mar 20, 2019 1:33 am

Hi All. Time to apply another coat or two of antifoul to The Great Escape, which will be on a swinging mooring on Windermere from early April to late October or early November. But unfortunately i have run out of the International Interspeed Ultra 2 that I have used for the last 3 years and it has been retired and is no longer available. The International website advises me to contact their help line to identify a suitable replacement, so I will call them tomorrow. But I’d welcome any guidance from this forum please. Thanks.
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19
Post by Vic » Wed Mar 20, 2019 5:27 am

Hi

The International range has almost completely changed.
I dont know why you choose Interspeed ultra 2 . It is a hard antifouling suitable for powerboats and fast yachts or when a boat is kept in deep mud which will tend to remove a soft type. I have used it, or its predecessors, for the latter reason but the downside is that over the years it builds up in thickness year on year until eventually it begins to flake off.

The replacement seems to be Ultra 300 if you want to continue using a hard type but I see no reason for you to choose a hard type

Otherwise the choice is:
Boatguard 100, a low cost antifouling , suited to low to medium fouling areas.
Cruiser 250 , but which is not suitable for very high fouling areas.
Micron 300 suitable for all areas , but is only available in dark grey.
Micron 350, not avaialble in white.
Micron 350W White only.
It should be possible to apply any of the above directly to Interspeed Ultra 2 after scrubbing clean.
See https://international-yachtpaint.com/en ... compatible

It will be interesting to hear what International suggest but it is always a good idea to find out which antifouling is most used locally
Vic
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19
Post by paulaston » Sat May 11, 2019 8:44 am

Hi Vic.

Thanks for your reply back in March - I’ve been meaning to report back on the results of my call with International.

I previously chose Interspeed Ultra II following the earlier part of this thread back in 2016. At the time my boat was trailer stored and sailed for a few weeks per year, so the advice at the time was “a hard type of antifouling such as Interspeed”, hence my choice at that time. I now have a permanent mooring on Windermere that I use for the season and hence the requirement has changed.

I called International and they recommended Primacon to touch up the small number of flaking areas and they advised that any of a selection of International antifoul paints that are available in Dover would be suitable, including Ultra 300 or Cruiser 250, which they said can be applied over the Primacon or the Interspeed Ultra II and will be compatible.

Having had confirmation that the new antifoul paints are compatible, I was then able to consider using what I had left in the end of a tin of Interspeed Ultra 2 from last year, in the knowledge that I would be able to paint over it with the newer paints. So before ordering any more antifoul, I used that left over Ultra II over the Primacon in the small number of areas I had touched up. I then worked out that I just had enough left still for one full coat of Interspeed Ultra II over the whole hull.

So a cheap solution using up what I had left from last year. The result looks good and it will be fine for this season.

Thanks.

Paul.
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Re: Best below waterline paint for SeaWych19
Post by Vic » Sat May 11, 2019 10:38 am

Thanks for the feed back

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Boom Fitting
Post by glynwilliams » Fri May 03, 2019 10:28 am

Help please,
I have just launched my boat "Wychway To", and it was rigged in my absence.

Forgive the non technical language
the slot on the boom, takes the main, is offset by 20/30 degrees from
what I thought should be vertical, how do I adjust this.
It reminds me of the boom arrangement on my old Foxcub but I
had a key to turn the boom, do I need a key?
I have just got the sails back after having new UV strips
fitted and I dont want to look a complete ------ when I fit the sails.
This is the voice of ignorance calling
regards
Glyn
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by Vic » Fri May 03, 2019 4:49 pm

If you have the original boom with Barton roller reefing then you can rotate the boom using a Barton reefing handle until the slot is on the top

If your boat has been converted to slab reefing and you do not have the reefing handle and do not require one it will be simple enough to improvise something to do the necessary unless the gear has been neglected and seized up.
Pictures below ( I hope ) shows the Barton reefing gear and where the handle fits to rotate it. Also the handle itself (Currently about £40 to buy)

If you do not have slab reefing and will therefore the using the original roller system then you will need the proper handle or a decent substitute

I recommend a slab reefing system although I also keep my roller system in working order

Image

Image
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by glynwilliams » Fri May 03, 2019 5:55 pm

Hello,
thank you Vic,
I shall peer into the hole and try and
improvise something to move the boom as slab reefing
is my ideal but as you suggested I will try and renovate and
keep the roller system in working order.
The fitting appears to be triangular.
There will be more questions I am sure
regards
Glyn
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by Vic » Fri May 03, 2019 8:42 pm

The fitting appears to be triangular.
No it is square ...... from memory 1/4" or 5/16"
Vic
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by glynwilliams » Sat May 04, 2019 6:50 am

Thanks again ,
The sun is shining ,so off to the Marina
I will report back
Regards
Glyn
Wychway To
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by glynwilliams » Sun May 05, 2019 3:41 pm

Hello Vic

well done and thank you for your help.
I used an appropriate sized screwdriver and hey presto
the boom revolves as needed.
I wonder why the Barton system fell out of favour, does
it have problems with the battens?
I think in some ways it might have suited me,being of senior
status and not as mobile as I once was.
When you have the time can you steer me in the direction of
the pros and cons?
regards
Glyn
"Whychway To"
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by Vic » Mon May 06, 2019 9:05 am

The troubles with the roller reefing system are:
As you roll the sail the thickness builds up at the forward end of the boom with the result that the aft end droops lower and lower
You cannot tension the new foot of the sail
You cannot use a fixed kicking strap. Instead you have to use a claw ring arrangement which is poor by comparison and which has to be guyed to the mainsheet fitting on the boom end, which bends!

The result is baggy sail which cannot be flattened in the very conditions in which you need to be flattening the sail.

A slab reefing system does not suffer from boom droop, allows the new foot to be properly tensioned and allows the use of a good kicking strap attached directly to the boom. the result is a far better shaped and flatter sail more appropriate to the conditions
Vic
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Re: Boom Fitting
Post by glynwilliams » Mon May 06, 2019 2:38 pm

Many thanks for all your help
,as you have suggested I
will stick to slab reefing
regards
Glyn
Wychway To
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Re: Transducers
Post by hughfairbrother » Sat Mar 23, 2019 2:04 pm

Hi Glyn,

Welcome to the Wyches. My transducer was fitted by the original owner about 12 inches behind the toilet thro hull. Not sure if that's correct but seems to do the job.

Any pics of your new purchase?

Also are you aware of the Facebook page for Seawych Owners?

Cheers
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Re: Transducers
Post by Vic » Sat Mar 23, 2019 4:25 pm

My echosounder transducer is behind where the loo was ( ie at the forward end of the toilet well)

Image

I have a towed log but if fitting a transducer follow the guidance of the manufacturer, I'd probably fit one in the under-sink cupboard on the opposite side to the sink drain ... but it would restrict access to the area under the cockpit sole.

Unless you actually want a continuous indication of of speed through the water ... eg to aid sail trim when racing, don't bother fitting one.
For navigational purposes a GPS is a better choice.
Vic
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glynwilliams
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Re: Transducers
Post by glynwilliams » Sat Mar 23, 2019 8:23 pm

Hello,
I will send some pics later this week,I just fell for her looks
thanks for the reply
Glyn
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Re: Transducers
Post by hughfairbrother » Sun Mar 24, 2019 10:03 pm

Super look forward to seeing her.

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Mast support beam
Post by paulgemmell » Mon Mar 04, 2019 1:35 pm

Hi All,
The interior roof on Sable is sagging, reading through some posts suggests that the beam might be rotting. As this is going to be quite a big job I'd appreciate an advice or images from what to expect when removing the foam on the cabin ceiling. An image can be viewed via this link.

https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/ ... 04/mg-8504

It's not very clear in the image but there is a definite sag. I'm hoping the beam is sound and it's only the foam that's come away from the fibreglass where it has cracked, although there is a definite dip on the exterior side of the coachroof.
Any comments would be much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Paul
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Re: Mast support beam
Post by Vic » Mon Mar 04, 2019 3:11 pm

Its difficult o tell. Mine has always, even from new, looked as though the mast beam was sagging from the inside.

Any deformation on the outside especially any cracks in the gel coat would be a sure sign that the beam has rotted or is broken and is sagging.

Usually i think people tackle the beam replacement from inside although one person, I'm sure reported on here somewhere, cut the moulding away on the outside, refitting it again when the new beam had been fitted.
Also some record of fitting a compression post internally.

Replacing the beam however you do it is an unenviable task!


One thread I found but which you may already have seen viewtopic.php?f=4&t=365
Vic
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Re: Mast support beam
Post by paulgemmell » Mon Mar 04, 2019 3:35 pm

Hi Vic,
Thank you for your prompt reply.
I'm going to cut out the foam and fibreglass and replace. This section of the interior coach room has a crack in it. I'm hoping this is in part due to the amount of holes that have been drilled in this area.
I will post any images I take.
Regards,
Paul

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Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:02 pm

We have recently acquired Sunrise Seawych number 103 (or at least that's the number on our sail) She had the rubbing strake replaced with a wooden box affair that has rotted away. Now we want to replace the rubbing strake with something very near to the original. On looking at other Seawyches, there appears to be stainless steel corner pieces round the transom and the bow. Can anyone help out with a pattern or drawing of these so I can fabricate some? I would like to keep them as near original as possible but as always with these things it might not be possible to get them exactly the same.

Also we have the usual mast support beam problems. I have drilled into it and it seems to be dry and not rotten. However, the inside skin in the roof has a distinct sag, and the outside gel-coat is badly cracked down each side of the mast support block. A failed attempt at sealing it up with some sort of gunge has been made, (not by me!). So We are cutting out the beam and replacing it with a tight fitting, hard wood beam, bonded into its housing with epoxy and re fiberglassed up.

Also I am hoping to seal up the inside of the chain locker and make a drain hole for it, a water tight access hole inside the boat as well.

Other things in the pipeline are Plexiglas bolt on windows, fiberglass locker tops, replacing the running rigging and kicking strap.
If anyone out there can help with any of this we would like to here from you.
Max, Joe and Pippa.
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Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by Vic » Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:32 pm

Hi Max

The original grey PVC fendering is no longer available. Not even sure if the section is still available in black.

Wilks were/are the source of such mouldings http://www.wilks.co.uk/marine.aspx The original was their section PVC 17/70

The last i knew was that they could still manufacture to a special order but the minimum quantity was quite considerable. ( 150m ???)

Take a look at the website.. I reckon you'll find something that will do the trick. Not cheap though!

Dunno who made the bow and corner plates... Sadler supplied them. Suggest you look at some on another boat draw what you want and get a local stainless steel fabricator to make them or make them yourself. I reckon you could improve on the originals anyway so don't faff about trying to get/make exact copies . Might need to be slightly different anyway to suit whatever fendering you use

IIRC there is info in the Owners Manual on replacing the mast beam. Download a copy if you have not already done so.

A few people have fitted a compression post ... not for me though! Maybe some photos in a past post on here if not i have some if you are interested.

Personally I'd not bother altering the chain locker. I think you will end up with it very shallow if you raise it so that it drains over board and does not flood with every wave. I flake the chain on deck briefly to drain before stowing. I live with the small quantity of water that does find its way into the forward under berth lockers. I do have a removeable panel that closes off the top part of the locker... just so that it looks nice from inside.

Bolt on windows probably a nice idea but nicer if the openings had been cut smaller originally so that the windows could remain the original size. Drill screw holes a little oversize or thermal expansion will cause cracks around the bolts... don't use countersunk fixings or cracks will occur. Many people find butyl tape good for bedding new windows on.
Personally fitted new ( acrylic) widows in rubber mouldings like the originals.

BTW it maybe worth getting the forward windows "drape moulded" to the shape of the old ones so they fit the curved of the cabin sides easily.

Polycarbonate or Acrylic ( Perspex, Plexiglass ) your choice. Polycarbonate scratches more easily I believe and is more susceptible to damage by solvents otherwise virtually unbreakable.

GRP locker tops available from the Sea Wych shop........ need to think about suitable hinges though.

Convert to slab reefing if not already done. Much better sail shape when reefed and you can fit a decent kicker


Vic
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:11 pm

Thank you for your input Vic, much appreciated. I have checked out most of the mast support beam comments and recommendations and have decided to replace the beam and the step block with a shaped hardwood replacement. Like you, I am not in favor of the compression support as I am no spring chicken at 20 stone +. I thought about tackling it from inside, but now considering cutting it out from outside and digging the old wood out of the fiberglass exterior box, making the new beam fit into it. This has its advantages in so far as I wouldn't have to tackle fiber-glassing the beam back into place from inside the boat.... Messy and subject to gravity so it would involve some sort of support to hold it in place whilst it set. The cosmetic wounds on the outside would be filled with gelcoat filler after replacing, then flatten off with wet and dry. Our intention is to paint the top and bottom with FlowCoat epoxy paint, giving a tough gelcoat like finish, white for the top and tangerine for the bottom. The windows will be 3mm plexi-glass with a 2mm overlay marine-ply frame and bolted on. I intend to dig out the foam from between the two layers of fiberglass round the window and insert some hard wood to form a stronger medium to tighten the windows down to. I will be using a suitable silicon based sealer like transparent sikaflex or similar to seal them. The chain locker has a cupboard type door on the inside that, not only looks bad but also fails to stop any water washing down the chain-pipe from soaking the cushion in the forepeek. This is obviously going and being replaced with a water tight locker door. Thus the need to seal off the bottom of the chain locker from the bilges and drill a hole through the side of the boat from inside to drain it. I wouldn't particularly matter if water got in through it as it would be above the waterline anyway and drain naturally. On the up side, it would help flush out any sand and sediment going down the chain pipe.
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Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by Vic » Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:08 pm

I dont think I would tackle the mast beam from outside. At least not unless the grp is already very badly damaged.

I know its an unpleasant job to do from the inside but there is only a thin inner skin of fibreglass to cut a way to access it. A new beam wont be difficult to prop into position while the resin sets.
The outer mounding is part of the main structure and restoring that to the original strength etc will be a fairly major job without even thinking about the cosmetics involved.

3 mm acrylic is, IMO, too thin for the windows. The originals were 5 mm. Using polycarbonate might be better from the strength point of view is you must use 3mm but I think it will still be too flexible. I saw someone trying to use some thin stuff ( no idea if it was acrylic or polycarbonate ) for some windows in a similar sized boat a few years ago. It was unsatisfactory.
There is no foam around the windows unless someone has made some modification. The cabin sides are just a single thickness GRP moulding approx 5mm thick.

It sounds as though someone has tried to be clever by fitting a door in the chain locker bulk head. Mine is as original, and coated on the chain side with resin and glass as recommended in the building instructions. I have added a removable panel above it to close off the few inches normally left open between it and the deck for purely aesthetic reasons.

I have no problems with water going down the chain pipe but I don't generally sail with the bows under water! However if you successfully make a self draining locker then I look forward to reading about it in the magazine.
Vic
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:05 pm

Thanks for your words of wisdom Vic! Cut the inside section out.... It was extremely difficult! And not a single, thin layer as you said, but 2 thick layers and a sandwich of foam between to boot. The wood inside was very wet and had little mast support strength. The first piece came out quite easily but the second was virtually impossible to get out without damaging the top layers of fiberglass further. At this point I went back to plan A and carefully cut the support beam box off at 1/4" above the deck. This removed I still found it difficult to remove the rest of the wood but managed it by screwing some large screws onto the it and levering it out against a pivot spreading the whole effort across the upturned box. Once out I removed most of the packing fiberglass that I supposed was the majority of strength in the mast support as the wood only seems to be there to fill the gap. I have ordered a solid beam made from a Mahogany type hardwood. Hopefully when it comes I'll set it into the box and pack it well with chopped mat and resin. Ill seal up the hole in the roof, again from outside (shuttering it up inside) And hopefully when I put the beam, in its box back into place it should fit pretty much in it's original position. It may need a bit of trimming up but I think I can fill any inadequacies with gelcoat filler. This done, and sandblaster been and gone we can then tackle the paint.
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Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by Vic » Wed Mar 05, 2014 6:35 pm

Thats for the feed back.

Id forgotten the foam.
When I have cut into the inner skin it has been fairly thin and I had not realised that there was another skin above the foam buts logical that the beam would have been glassed over after being fitted suppose.

Did you Take any pictures. I am sure a brief illustrated account of what you've done would be welcome copy for the magazine, esp having tackled it in a different way
Vic
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:19 pm

No pictures yet but I will be taking some as I go through the reassembling process. Watch this space.
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:32 pm

Some pictures of work in progress:
More pictures to follow as work progresses. Hopefully of better quality than these as I am between cameras at the moment.
ATTACHMENTS
Mast beam replaced and left to set..jpg
Mast beam replaced and left to set..jpg (156.88 KiB) Viewed 417 times
Mast beam in place ready to be glassed up and seald into its box..jpg
Mast beam in place ready to be glassed up and seald into its box..jpg (176.58 KiB) Viewed 417 times
mast beam in place and seald into its box..jpg
mast beam in place and seald into its box..jpg (206.56 KiB) Viewed 417 times
Last edited by maxholt on Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:49 am

More updates to our mast beam replacement and some follow up pictures.
Also the work in progress on the chain locker.So far we have removed the door and hinges that was originally in place and left the board it was attached to in place. This, together with the original door didn't extend to the underside of the deck, so we have cut a new piece of marine ply to partition off the chain locker completely. we have fitted a round watertight access hatch cover to the new partition. The floor of the chain locker has now been cut and fits perfectly in the bottom of the locker, I have secured an eye bolt to it with a D shackle to attach the anchor chain to with a stainless plate underneath. I have riveted over the threads after tightening the nut up to prevent it from coming unscrewed once it is fiberglassed into place.
ATTACHMENTS
Chain locker floor sized 2 .jpg
Chain locker floor sized 2 .jpg (161.57 KiB) Viewed 417 times
Chain locker pertition showing round hatch.jpg
Chain locker pertition showing round hatch.jpg (184.47 KiB) Viewed 417 times
Chain locker pertition with shelf backing and door remouved.jpg
Chain locker pertition with shelf backing and door remouved.jpg (143.86 KiB) Viewed 417 times
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maxholt
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:40 pm

I've edited the original pictures and posted some resized ones. Makes them easier to view.
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Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by maxholt » Thu May 28, 2015 8:34 pm

UPDATE
It has been a while since I have done anything with SUNRISE now, and things have been sloping down the slippery slope to complete lack of interest. So! we decided to get her under cover at all cost and arranged to take her to a boat yard in Wales where we could go down for 6 days a month and complete the work over the next 3 months. Yes! Your absolutely right. We are dreaming. So as we are in a dilemma with cover staff for our disabled employer and proper transport we have now had to scrap that idea. Just as well coz we have now been offered a building locally at an affordable rent that if it will go in we can do all the work whenever we have an od day or even half a day to spare. the osmosis is looking very tedious but we think we can get to grips with it when she dries out. we have the paint, fittings and filler to get on with it now so we have no excuse.
More posts to come in the near future....... Still no corner bits! Anyone know of any going anywhere?
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paulgemmell
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:27 pm
Re: Bow and transom corners and mast beam
Post by paulgemmell » Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:51 am

Hi,
This seem like a job I need to tackle, just wondering if you still have any of the images available.
Many thanks,
Paul

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Hole left by toilet removal
Post by hughfairbrother » Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:23 am

I have recently removed the toilet leaving a large hole. Has anyone got an easy fix or do I need to do a standard fiberglass 1 in 12 thickness chamfer solution?
Vic, have you repaired yours yet and if so what did you Do?
Many thanks
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Hole left by toilet removal
Post by Vic » Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:21 am

Hi Hugh

Sorry not to have replied sooner

Yes I repaired the hole left by the toilet.

I opted to do a standard chamfered repair from the outside, although my chamfer was somewhat less than the 12:1 recommended

I repaired from the outside because I thought that a patch on the inside would have been potentially weak at a point where the yard was likely to jack-up the boat when loading/ unloading the launching trolley. I did however also put a couple of layers of glass cloth over the entire area on the inside.

I bought a compact 115 mm angle grinder that could be used with one hand within the confined space of the toilet compartment and a rubber sanding backing pad accessory. ( i found that sanding was an adequate way of preparing the chamfer etc and easier for a novice to control rather than a more aggressive grinding disc.)

https://www.silverlinetools.com/en-GB/P ... ame=571295

It was quite difficult to judge an even chamfer, especially on a curved surface

I used West epoxy resin and 600g bi-axial cloth. Epoxy because the bond with the GRP would be stronger than with polyester resin and not require gel coating to make fully water resistant. 600g cloth because I judged that to be a good compromise between a smaller number of thicker layers and a larger number of thinner layers. ( but see later comment)

Having prepared the chamfer and the inside surface I started the repair with two layers on the inside with peel ply ( to give a suitable bloom free surface for the outside layers to adhere to ) backed up with a piece of heavy gauge polythene and a stiffish foam backing pad ( ex packaging material) all held in place on the outside with gaffer tape.

I prepared a one piece patch for the outside from the appropriate number of circles of cloth, with the largest equal to the diameter of the prepared area and the smallest the size of the hole, rather than applying the layers one by one. ( Note the largest circle is the first one in contact with the hull, the smallest the final one working outwards)

I found it difficult to accurately position the prepared patch. Another time I would mark up some better guide lines

I recommend studying as much info as you can find on the West system websites
https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-manuals/

and viewing the appropriate videos
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... AT6ciaY3hB

I bought all my materials from East Coast Fibreglass Supplies although I have also used CFS

I bought:
1 metre of 600g bi-axial cloth ( Loads more than I needed, but its cheap enough. Thinner would mean more layers and therefore use a bigger proportion)

a 1.2kg pack of West Epoxy resin. A 600g pack would have been enough but I did not want to run out part way through)

A tub of colloidal silica and a tub of low density filler

a pot of signal red pigment ( a decent match with the red hull)

A metre of peel ply ( already explained)

Also
A mixing kit, 2 each 1" and 2" brushes, a finned roller ( because I'd lost mine), dispensing pumps to fit the 1.2kg pack ( accurate measuring is important when using epoxy) and a can of acetone

Total spend in 2013 incl shipping and VAT : £110

I have loads of cloth, peel ply and fillers left over, quite a bit of resin and most of the pigment
Vic
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hughfairbrother
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 10:21 am
Re: Hole left by toilet removal
Post by hughfairbrother » Sun Jan 13, 2019 1:52 pm

Many thanks Vic for the detailed response. I think I now feel a lot braver to carry out the work

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'Skeg' Plate on Seawych Stern
Post by kirstiehowell » Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:09 pm

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone could help. I have a sadler 19 and a chap on my pontoon was telling me about a 'skeg' plate that could be fitted to the aft of the boat which helps with stability whislt sailing. Has anyone modified their boat this way?
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: 'Skeg' Plate on Seawych Stern
Post by Vic » Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:56 am

First point to make is that the Sea Wych was designed by J.V (John) Sadler and built mostly by his company Sadler and Sons.
The Sadler range of yachts were designed by David Sadler and built by Sadler Yachts, IIRC David Sadler's son, Martin's, company.

There is no connection between John Sadler and David Sadler or Sadler Yachts or between the Sea Wych and the Sadler range of yachts

John sadler always claimed that he had tried a skeg but that it made no useful improvement, merely making it difficult to load/ unload the boat onto a trailer. I suspect the latter was the main objection!

The only Seawych I have seen with a skeg is Peter Bates'. Perhaps if he sees your question he will explain his reasons for fitting the skeg and provide some details.

just visible behind Peter in this picture ( not helpful but another opportunity to post the picture)

Image
Vic
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Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by rogerdurham » Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:01 pm

Hello all, I'm new to association and to owning a seawych having recently purchased 'Trunkles' in a very poor state.
I'm currently in the process of bringing her up to a sailing standard internally and externally and will require lots of help, advice and suggestions.
The first of which is below:
The Jib sail is on the original reef roller and seems in serviceable condition, although the Blue Strip surrounding the sail is in very poor condition suffering what seems to be extensive UV damage (bleaching and material degradation). Is this a sign that I should replace the entire sail or could it be saved?
Could anyone suggest a appropriate replacement or a company that could possibly repair the original sail.
Many Thanks.
Roger.
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by Vic » Fri Jun 16, 2017 7:21 pm

Welcome to the Association.


The blue strip is sacrificial. Its purpose is to protect the sail itself from UV damage.
Provided the sail is in good condition the UV strip can be replaced as/ when necessary.

I don't know where you are but any sail maker and many cover makers will do it. It' s a routine job for them.

It's not cheap though . The cover makers where I take mine charge £80.00 + £17.00/m of leech length. eg for an 6m leech would cost £80.00 + (£17.00 X 6 = £102)= £182.00 (the price includes the foot).

However you may be able to negotiate a reduction if you remove the old strip yourself as it is half the job. Be warned though that if the sail is dirty they may well want to have it laundered first.
Last edited by Vic on Wed Sep 06, 2017 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Vic
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rogerdurham
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by rogerdurham » Fri Jun 16, 2017 8:46 pm

Thanks Vic , I have feeling I'm going to be on here quite frequently asking many questions.
By the looks of it the Sail hasn't been off the reef roller for a very very long time as the extremity has bleached to almost white from the original blue.
What's been rolled up isn't too bad but their are strips coming away on the most exposed areas.
The main however has been kept in sail bag stowed in the cabin and is in great condition.
I have many many things to do on the boat to make her presentable and sail worthy again. It seems from the state of everything on the deck and the mast shes been languishing in a boat yard under a tree for a year or two. Much of the running gear and tackle is missing as are the lines and halyards, what is present is green and probably beyond any serviceable use. And that's just whats been on the deck!
I'm in north Lincs/ Notts area. (Around Lincoln/ Worksop area).
I should imagine that the cost of renewing the UV strip is far less than a new sail?
Know of any companies in my area that could handle the job?
Thanks.
Roger.
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brianbowman
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:31 pm
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by brianbowman » Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:10 am

Hi all I’m also a new owner of a seawych and I also got mine in a very poor state but could see the potential straight away. Sadly mine came with no sails and was wondering if I could pick second hand ones up or any sails that might fit thanks for reading
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hughfairbrother
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 10:21 am
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by hughfairbrother » Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:32 pm

Hi Brian,
They come up for sail from time to time on eBay. There was also a set for sale on this forum a month or 2 ago. Guess best to keep looking. I also read their was another type of boat with similar sails that could be used but sorry can't remember the name. Cheers and good luck !
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brianbowman
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:31 pm
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by brianbowman » Mon Aug 27, 2018 5:28 pm

Thanks for reply I was told enterprise dinghy sails might fit what do you think
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Sail Repairs/Replacement.
Post by Vic » Mon Aug 27, 2018 11:01 pm

ITYWF that the Enterprise mainsail is a little smaller than the Sea Wych main but because the Enterprise is fractionally rigged the jib is very much smaller.
The total sail area is only 10.5 m²
The Enterprise sails may well be made of lighter weight fabric.
Vic
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