bilge keels
Post by paulgemmell » Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:29 pm
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with fibreglass above the bilge keels (please see photos-first 3 images)
https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/69962hrm/sable11
I'm not sure but it seems there might have been water dripping from electrical wiring which has resulted in the glass sinking into the bilge keels.
Seems quite serious though.
The images are not that clear but it's quite dark down there.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Paul
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Re: bilge keels
Post by Vic » Thu Apr 05, 2018 9:06 pm
The void above the ballast in the keels should have been filled with 2 part, self expanding, foam and the top glassed over with resin and CSM.
I'd be very puzzled if I saw anything like than in my boat
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Re: bilge keels
Post by paulgemmell » Fri Apr 06, 2018 9:53 am
Hi Vic,
Thanks for your prompt reply.
It's reassuring to know that there is a void above the ballast, looks like I'm going to have to remove the the glass sheets and have a look inside the keels.
The battery compartment was situated there and wonder if a leaking battery might have caused the issue.
I'll post some photos when I get round to removing the glass sheets.
Many Thanks,
Paul
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Locker Tops
Locker tops
Post by stevehowlett » Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:11 pm
Hi all, recently purchased a set of locker tops.
My newly acquired Seawych 'Bogi' has currently some seriously delaminated wooden ones that are several seasons well past saving.
Got the instructions that go with them, but they're slightly bewildering to me, as there's no mention of sizes of hinges and hardware that I'd need to fit them.
Does anybody have any information they could kindly share with me please? Or any tips found whilst fitting your own? Or even some close-up images of them installed.
Thanks.
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Posts: 618
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Tue Jun 27, 2017 9:01 pm
Personally made new wooden locker tops
But you might find this previous thread helpful .
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=151&p=484&hilit=locker+tops#p484
Vic
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stevehowlett
Re: Locker tops
Post by stevehowlett » Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:51 am
Thanks Vic,
That could well prove to be helpful.
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:12 am
I also have a set of locker tops from the SeaWych shop and I am struggling to work out how to fit them.
I am hoping to keep this as simple as I can by permanently fixing the vertical sections rather than fibreglassing them to the horizontal locker tops.
But I still need to get a suitable set of hinges for the locker tops.
The photos on the previous thread are not visible unfortunately, so I’d appreciate any photos anyone might have or any specification for hinges or supplier details please.
Thanks
Paul.
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Posts: 618
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Thu Mar 22, 2018 2:45 pm
I would not fix the locker top fronts in place. If only the top opens the access to the lockers will be so restricted that they will be next to useless.
If you glass battens to the undersides of the tops and the insides of the fronts you will be able to hinge them together with ordinary butt hinges in a similar way to my plywood locker tops
Image
To hinge the tops to the cockpit coaming I found some hinges similar to these Westerly spares ,only fitted the opposite way up to the picture. They were very expensive!
http://www.westerly-yachts.co.uk/popup_ ... hp?pID=458
Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:04 pm
Thanks Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Mon Mar 26, 2018 10:04 pm
I took the old locker tops off today and tried to place the new grp locker tops supplied by the SeaWych shop last year into position to work out if the hinges I’ve found will do the trick or to see if I need some different ones.
Unfortunately I didn’t get that far because the locker tops and fronts do not fit. The fronts could possibly be fettled and trimmed to make them go somewhere close (although my expectation is that I should not have to do that). However, there is no way the locker tops will straddle the locker opening and the locker front as it is indicated that they should in the supplied drawings; and no amount of fettling or trimming is likely to solve that.
Can anyone help me answer the following questions please so I can try to work out what the problem is and decide what to do next?
1. Do all Sadler SeaWych 19s have exactly the same size locker openings?
2. Who manufactures the locker tops and what are their contact details?
3. Has anyone got any technical drawings with exact dimensions for the supplied locker tops and fronts so I can check those dimensions against the ones I have been supplied with and against the locker openings?
4. Has anyone successfully fitted the same locker tops and fronts to their Sadler SeaWych 19?
5. Has anyone got any pictures please of successfully fitted locker tops and fronts?
6. Has anyone had a similar problem fitting these as I have and if so how did you solve it?
Thanks in anticipation.
Regards,
Paul.
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:00 am
I know a certain amount of fettling is necessary but they should fit !
Peter Bates ( Southern area rep) was fitting some last year, but due to ill health I have not seen the finished result.
In case of real problems with them contact Jean and Dave Bannister. They get the tops made, but I do not know by whom.
Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulgemmell » Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:37 pm
Hi Steve,
Hinges on Sable are from Seasure-https://www.sea-sure.co.uk/products-sku?populate=hinges
Some images of how the hinges are fitted can be viewed here-https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/69962hrm/sable11
Cheers,
Paul
Post by stevehowlett » Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:11 pm
Hi all, recently purchased a set of locker tops.
My newly acquired Seawych 'Bogi' has currently some seriously delaminated wooden ones that are several seasons well past saving.
Got the instructions that go with them, but they're slightly bewildering to me, as there's no mention of sizes of hinges and hardware that I'd need to fit them.
Does anybody have any information they could kindly share with me please? Or any tips found whilst fitting your own? Or even some close-up images of them installed.
Thanks.
Top
Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Tue Jun 27, 2017 9:01 pm
Personally made new wooden locker tops
But you might find this previous thread helpful .
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=151&p=484&hilit=locker+tops#p484
Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by stevehowlett » Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:51 am
Thanks Vic,
That could well prove to be helpful.
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:12 am
I also have a set of locker tops from the SeaWych shop and I am struggling to work out how to fit them.
I am hoping to keep this as simple as I can by permanently fixing the vertical sections rather than fibreglassing them to the horizontal locker tops.
But I still need to get a suitable set of hinges for the locker tops.
The photos on the previous thread are not visible unfortunately, so I’d appreciate any photos anyone might have or any specification for hinges or supplier details please.
Thanks
Paul.
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Vic
Posts: 618
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Thu Mar 22, 2018 2:45 pm
I would not fix the locker top fronts in place. If only the top opens the access to the lockers will be so restricted that they will be next to useless.
If you glass battens to the undersides of the tops and the insides of the fronts you will be able to hinge them together with ordinary butt hinges in a similar way to my plywood locker tops
Image
To hinge the tops to the cockpit coaming I found some hinges similar to these Westerly spares ,only fitted the opposite way up to the picture. They were very expensive!
http://www.westerly-yachts.co.uk/popup_ ... hp?pID=458
Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:04 pm
Thanks Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulaston » Mon Mar 26, 2018 10:04 pm
I took the old locker tops off today and tried to place the new grp locker tops supplied by the SeaWych shop last year into position to work out if the hinges I’ve found will do the trick or to see if I need some different ones.
Unfortunately I didn’t get that far because the locker tops and fronts do not fit. The fronts could possibly be fettled and trimmed to make them go somewhere close (although my expectation is that I should not have to do that). However, there is no way the locker tops will straddle the locker opening and the locker front as it is indicated that they should in the supplied drawings; and no amount of fettling or trimming is likely to solve that.
Can anyone help me answer the following questions please so I can try to work out what the problem is and decide what to do next?
1. Do all Sadler SeaWych 19s have exactly the same size locker openings?
2. Who manufactures the locker tops and what are their contact details?
3. Has anyone got any technical drawings with exact dimensions for the supplied locker tops and fronts so I can check those dimensions against the ones I have been supplied with and against the locker openings?
4. Has anyone successfully fitted the same locker tops and fronts to their Sadler SeaWych 19?
5. Has anyone got any pictures please of successfully fitted locker tops and fronts?
6. Has anyone had a similar problem fitting these as I have and if so how did you solve it?
Thanks in anticipation.
Regards,
Paul.
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Vic
Posts: 618
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Re: Locker tops
Post by Vic » Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:00 am
I know a certain amount of fettling is necessary but they should fit !
Peter Bates ( Southern area rep) was fitting some last year, but due to ill health I have not seen the finished result.
In case of real problems with them contact Jean and Dave Bannister. They get the tops made, but I do not know by whom.
Vic
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Re: Locker tops
Post by paulgemmell » Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:37 pm
Hi Steve,
Hinges on Sable are from Seasure-https://www.sea-sure.co.uk/products-sku?populate=hinges
Some images of how the hinges are fitted can be viewed here-https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/69962hrm/sable11
Cheers,
Paul
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Fitting GRP Licker lids...Help req'd
Fitting GRP Licker lids...Help req'd
Post by Vic » Sun Jun 04, 2006 10:26 am
I have had a query from a member who does not have internet access about fitting the grp locker lids.
As I have not fitted these to my boat I was unable to help.
Would a few others like to tell me how theirs are fitted. What sort of hinges have been used etc, where on the boat are the hinges fixed and is it necessary to reduce the depth of the rear lip so that they can be hinged.
A photo or two would be nice
Vic
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Colin & Karen Leonard
Post by Colin & Karen Leonard » Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:47 pm
Hi Vic,
We have attached a picture showing the hinges on our locker tops (not an area where you naturally take any pictures particularly inside),
We didnt fit them ourselves and have never had much need to pay any particular attention to them. The fronts are hinged internally to the tops and these hinges (if my memory serves me correctly) have been fibre glassed in place.
I do not know what they are like when they are new but they can catch on the back when opening so may need some minor adjustments to the height on the side that hinges to the boat.
They are fitted with a hasp and staple for securing in a closed position.
If necessary we will take some more pictures next weekend if no-one has any.
Colin & Karen
[/img]
Last edited by Colin & Karen Leonard on Sun Jun 11, 2006 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Vic » Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:03 pm
Thanks for that. I will print it out and send it on. It sounds as though the back lip has to be trimmed. Then it is a question of finding suitable hinges. For my wooden tops I found some (very expensive) aluminium hinges in chandlers intended for lockers or hatches.
Other answers eagerly awaited.
Vic
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Colin & Karen Leonard
Post by Colin & Karen Leonard » Sun Jun 11, 2006 6:20 pm
Vic,
Attached are some more photos which I hope will be of assistance, I did not fit the locker tops myself but they seen to work OK.
You will note that the side that is hinged to the boat has been cut away, it seems as though without this they will not open and if the cut away is not deep enough they rub on opening.
As mentioned previously the internal hinges are fitted in place with fibre glass also it appears the a small shim if ply has been used to get the correct spacing (I didn't have anything to measure it but I would say approximately 4mm ply was used).
I am not sure why the tape has been put on, maybe to reduce sticking where they are a snug fit at the back.
I hope this helps.
Colin & Karen.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image[/img]
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Post by Vic » Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:08 pm
Thanks I have printed that out and will send it on. I am suggesting that an article on fitting the lids would be a useful contribution to the Owners Manual but I have not heard anything since I sent the last picture etc
Vic
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Re: Fitting GRP Licker lids...Help req'd
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:11 am
I have a set of locker tops from the SeaWych shop and I am struggling to work out how to fit them.
I am hoping to keep this as simple as I can by permanently fixing the vertical sections rather than fibreglassing them to the horizontal locker tops.
But I still need to get a suitable set of hinges for the locker tops.
The photos on this thread are not visible unfortunately, so I’d appreciate any photos anyone might have or any specification for hinges or supplier details please.
Thanks
Paul.
Post by Vic » Sun Jun 04, 2006 10:26 am
I have had a query from a member who does not have internet access about fitting the grp locker lids.
As I have not fitted these to my boat I was unable to help.
Would a few others like to tell me how theirs are fitted. What sort of hinges have been used etc, where on the boat are the hinges fixed and is it necessary to reduce the depth of the rear lip so that they can be hinged.
A photo or two would be nice
Vic
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Colin & Karen Leonard
Post by Colin & Karen Leonard » Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:47 pm
Hi Vic,
We have attached a picture showing the hinges on our locker tops (not an area where you naturally take any pictures particularly inside),
We didnt fit them ourselves and have never had much need to pay any particular attention to them. The fronts are hinged internally to the tops and these hinges (if my memory serves me correctly) have been fibre glassed in place.
I do not know what they are like when they are new but they can catch on the back when opening so may need some minor adjustments to the height on the side that hinges to the boat.
They are fitted with a hasp and staple for securing in a closed position.
If necessary we will take some more pictures next weekend if no-one has any.
Colin & Karen
[/img]
Last edited by Colin & Karen Leonard on Sun Jun 11, 2006 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Vic » Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:03 pm
Thanks for that. I will print it out and send it on. It sounds as though the back lip has to be trimmed. Then it is a question of finding suitable hinges. For my wooden tops I found some (very expensive) aluminium hinges in chandlers intended for lockers or hatches.
Other answers eagerly awaited.
Vic
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Colin & Karen Leonard
Post by Colin & Karen Leonard » Sun Jun 11, 2006 6:20 pm
Vic,
Attached are some more photos which I hope will be of assistance, I did not fit the locker tops myself but they seen to work OK.
You will note that the side that is hinged to the boat has been cut away, it seems as though without this they will not open and if the cut away is not deep enough they rub on opening.
As mentioned previously the internal hinges are fitted in place with fibre glass also it appears the a small shim if ply has been used to get the correct spacing (I didn't have anything to measure it but I would say approximately 4mm ply was used).
I am not sure why the tape has been put on, maybe to reduce sticking where they are a snug fit at the back.
I hope this helps.
Colin & Karen.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image[/img]
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Post by Vic » Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:08 pm
Thanks I have printed that out and will send it on. I am suggesting that an article on fitting the lids would be a useful contribution to the Owners Manual but I have not heard anything since I sent the last picture etc
Vic
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Re: Fitting GRP Licker lids...Help req'd
Post by paulaston » Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:11 am
I have a set of locker tops from the SeaWych shop and I am struggling to work out how to fit them.
I am hoping to keep this as simple as I can by permanently fixing the vertical sections rather than fibreglassing them to the horizontal locker tops.
But I still need to get a suitable set of hinges for the locker tops.
The photos on this thread are not visible unfortunately, so I’d appreciate any photos anyone might have or any specification for hinges or supplier details please.
Thanks
Paul.
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Outboard - Inboard
outboard-inboard
Post by paulgemmell » Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:49 pm
Hello Everbody-
First post, so here goes-
I've had Sable 11 (Sail 158) for about a year now and just started some refurbishments. Here's some images-
https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/ ... 4/img-2850
Just wondering if there would be any advantages of cutting out part of the transom and a hole in the hull stern to move my outboard, inboard.
I realise this would be a big job-a lot of restructuring and glass work. Any comments would be great
Cheers,
Paul
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by Vic » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:25 pm
It would bring the outboard controls within easy reach .
OTOH you would end up with the noisy thing in the cockpit with you. Exhaust fumes might be a problem too.
It would be difficult if not impossible to devise a system that allowed you to lift or tilt the prop clear of the water when sailing unless you opted for a sort of half way arrangement that allowed you to clamp the outboard directly on to the transom.
Vic
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by paulgemmell » Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:47 pm
Thanks Vic,
Aye, thanks for the feedback.
I think your probably right a lot of work for a compromise.
Cheers,
Paul
Post by paulgemmell » Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:49 pm
Hello Everbody-
First post, so here goes-
I've had Sable 11 (Sail 158) for about a year now and just started some refurbishments. Here's some images-
https://4385002.tifmember.com/v/photos/ ... 4/img-2850
Just wondering if there would be any advantages of cutting out part of the transom and a hole in the hull stern to move my outboard, inboard.
I realise this would be a big job-a lot of restructuring and glass work. Any comments would be great
Cheers,
Paul
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by Vic » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:25 pm
It would bring the outboard controls within easy reach .
OTOH you would end up with the noisy thing in the cockpit with you. Exhaust fumes might be a problem too.
It would be difficult if not impossible to devise a system that allowed you to lift or tilt the prop clear of the water when sailing unless you opted for a sort of half way arrangement that allowed you to clamp the outboard directly on to the transom.
Vic
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Re: outboard-inboard
Post by paulgemmell » Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:47 pm
Thanks Vic,
Aye, thanks for the feedback.
I think your probably right a lot of work for a compromise.
Cheers,
Paul
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Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Post by paulaston » Fri Aug 12, 2016 4:22 pm
Hi All,
I need to replace the forestay, which runs through the furling roller for the jib, because it has frayed where it attaches to the top of the mast and approximately half of the wire strands have snapped. II will try to attach a photo. I also need to ascertain if this need to be done professionally or if it is something that I can safely do myself.
I also need to replace the jib halyard, which snapped on Windermere last week; the main halyard and the jib sheets, which are very old; and part of the main sheet locking mechanism, which appears to have been bodged.
I am also unsure as to exactly how the rigging should be set up, particularly in relation to the jib furling mechanism. Also, only the approx 8mm main halyard runs through the mast; whereas the snapped jib halyard was a 4-5 mm rope running outside over over a pulley at the top of the mast and there is an unused set of pulleys inside the mast and an unused pulley at the top of the jib furling roller. The topping lift is the same 4-5mm rope type. All in all, a complete overhaul is required!
I'd be grateful of any guidance please. I have purchased the owners manual from the shop, but it doesn't contain any such information.
I could do with knowing the lengths, gauges and specifications of the stays, halyards and sheets; and any information about the setup of the rigging in general please, including what deck/cabin roof hardware should be in place (for example, there are currently no jammers or suitable cleats near the cockpit). I also could do with some new sails at some point; and I at least need a handle for the main sheet roller reefing or I might need to consider replacing it with slab reefing.
This is for "The Great Escape", sail number SW226.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Regards,
Paul.
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:04 pm
It is difficult to answer your questions without knowing exactly what mast and reefing spar you have have or if any modifications have been made
Standing rigging.
The original was all 3mm.
Many, myself included have ungraded the forestay to 4mm.. The reefing spar seems to revolve more freely on the larger wire.
I am assuming you have the original Cooney reefing spar as I have no 1st hand experience of any other
The forestay can be replaced as a DIY job although I had mine done "semi professionally" by someone at the yard who had all the necessary equipment and know-how.
Replacement top and bottom bushes for the spar can be bought from the Sea Wych shop. I would thread the new wire through from top to bottom as there may be an intermediate bearing immediately above the central joining plate, but perhaps not in a boat as early as no 226. If you attempt to push the wire through from bottom to top you may push this bearing if it is there up to the top of the spar.
If you are using Talurit splices note that there should be a bearing block fitted over the bottom ferrule for the spar bottom bearing bush to rest on. It may not be necessary with swageless fittings.
Note that if you have the original SS Spars mast it originally had swept back spreaders with the cap shrouds going to the after most attachment points on the deck while the lowers were in line with the mast. Replacement masts usually have squared off spreaders and two pairs ( aft and forward ) of lowers
Running rigging
If you have a Cooney spar the halyard runs over the sheave at the top ( The unused one you mention I guess) and back down to the top of the drum. I have cut my halyard in two. so that the tail can detached ( otherwise attached with a double sheet bend) once the sail is hoisted.
Most other replacement spars will have the halyard attached to a swivel at the peak of the sail and fall internally, exiting via a sheave near the foot of the mast.
6mm quite adequate.
The main halyard would originally have fallen internally, exiting via a sheave at or near the base of the mast.
6mm is adequate for both foresail and mainsail halyards. In fact 8mm is too large for the original exit sheaves.
The original topping lift was lighter than 6mm ( 5 mm???)
The building instructions, which are available from the Sea Wych shop, contain the original rigging instructions The drawings which came with the building instructions can be found on my Photobucket account at http://s50.photobucket.com/user/Vic43/l ... t=9&page=1
Original sheets were 10 mm.
Two ordinary two horned cleats were originally supplied for the foresail sheets to mount on the outside of the coamings. I have fitted a pair of lateral Clamcleats on top of the coamings
Image
The original bottom main sheet block incorporated a simple jaw cam cleat. I added a fairlead.
Vic
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by paulaston » Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:32 am
Many thanks again Vic - lots for me to take in there, I will study this properly later. My thinking at the moment is that I need to buy the bushes from the SWOA shop and have a 4mm stay professionally replaced using the new bushes by someone suitably qualified with the correct tools and materials.
I have the build instructions, which I purchased from the Sea Wych Shop. The diagrams were not included with that document and the shop do not appear to have immediate access to copies of these, so thank you for providing them.
I don't know whether or not I have a Cooney spar or not. Here is a link to some pictures of each end of the forestay:
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/paulaston7046/library/
From these pictures, is it possible to work out what setup I have and as to whether or not it has been modified? I can take more pictures later if needed. Apologies for the background - a frayed stay doesn't stand out too well with grass as the background!
I have also included a picture of The Great Escape, SW226. What I don't know is if this is the correct sail number or not. It is the sail number on the main sail, but the previous owner was unable to confirm whether or not the sails he provided as part of the sale are the original sails. The previous owner had registered with the Sea Wych Owner's Association under this sail number and I have taken over that registration. Does the picture at the above link provide any indication as to whether or The Great Escape is the age indicated by the sail number? And is it possible to ascertain what age that is? Unfortunately I do not have any history prior to the previous owner.
Thanks,
Paul.
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Vic
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Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:53 pm
I can tell from the pictures that you have a Cooney reefing spar. No doubt about that. So the instructions for the halyard to return down the spar to the second fixing point on the top of the drum apply.
The top and bottom bushes will have to be drilled out if you fit a larger diameter forestay. Similarly the split bearing block if you use a Talurit splice.
I notice from the pictures of the rigged boat that the boom appears to droop ! This suggests that the mast is raked aft. It should be vertical. Perhaps if you shorten in on the bottle screw maybe also fit a smaller shackle ( or better a toggle) and at the same time extend the backstays with toggles if necessary you will be able to get the mast upright.
As for the sail number. 226 would have been a boat with a white hull and grey superstructure. If yours is in fact red and white then it is much later than 226. I don't know exactly when the colour scheme changed. During the high 300s I think although the changeover may have been blurred by the fact that the sail numbers were not issued in strict order , or so rumour has it.
Vic
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christopherphillips
Posts: 25
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Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Post by christopherphillips » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:50 pm
Inside My Cooney Spar
I wanted to change my cable to 4mm but I wanted to know what was likely to block me inside. I drilled the rivets but could not part the two halves without potential damage so I shoved my camera probe up both ends and sure enough the bearing mentioned by Vic was certainly there at the top end quite secure. I took another photo from the bottom and it shows the stainless sleeve holding the two halves together....The small object is one of the drilled rivets that I will flush out. My sail is SW416
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Boat_Foil_Bottom.jpg
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Post by paulaston » Fri Aug 12, 2016 4:22 pm
Hi All,
I need to replace the forestay, which runs through the furling roller for the jib, because it has frayed where it attaches to the top of the mast and approximately half of the wire strands have snapped. II will try to attach a photo. I also need to ascertain if this need to be done professionally or if it is something that I can safely do myself.
I also need to replace the jib halyard, which snapped on Windermere last week; the main halyard and the jib sheets, which are very old; and part of the main sheet locking mechanism, which appears to have been bodged.
I am also unsure as to exactly how the rigging should be set up, particularly in relation to the jib furling mechanism. Also, only the approx 8mm main halyard runs through the mast; whereas the snapped jib halyard was a 4-5 mm rope running outside over over a pulley at the top of the mast and there is an unused set of pulleys inside the mast and an unused pulley at the top of the jib furling roller. The topping lift is the same 4-5mm rope type. All in all, a complete overhaul is required!
I'd be grateful of any guidance please. I have purchased the owners manual from the shop, but it doesn't contain any such information.
I could do with knowing the lengths, gauges and specifications of the stays, halyards and sheets; and any information about the setup of the rigging in general please, including what deck/cabin roof hardware should be in place (for example, there are currently no jammers or suitable cleats near the cockpit). I also could do with some new sails at some point; and I at least need a handle for the main sheet roller reefing or I might need to consider replacing it with slab reefing.
This is for "The Great Escape", sail number SW226.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Regards,
Paul.
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:04 pm
It is difficult to answer your questions without knowing exactly what mast and reefing spar you have have or if any modifications have been made
Standing rigging.
The original was all 3mm.
Many, myself included have ungraded the forestay to 4mm.. The reefing spar seems to revolve more freely on the larger wire.
I am assuming you have the original Cooney reefing spar as I have no 1st hand experience of any other
The forestay can be replaced as a DIY job although I had mine done "semi professionally" by someone at the yard who had all the necessary equipment and know-how.
Replacement top and bottom bushes for the spar can be bought from the Sea Wych shop. I would thread the new wire through from top to bottom as there may be an intermediate bearing immediately above the central joining plate, but perhaps not in a boat as early as no 226. If you attempt to push the wire through from bottom to top you may push this bearing if it is there up to the top of the spar.
If you are using Talurit splices note that there should be a bearing block fitted over the bottom ferrule for the spar bottom bearing bush to rest on. It may not be necessary with swageless fittings.
Note that if you have the original SS Spars mast it originally had swept back spreaders with the cap shrouds going to the after most attachment points on the deck while the lowers were in line with the mast. Replacement masts usually have squared off spreaders and two pairs ( aft and forward ) of lowers
Running rigging
If you have a Cooney spar the halyard runs over the sheave at the top ( The unused one you mention I guess) and back down to the top of the drum. I have cut my halyard in two. so that the tail can detached ( otherwise attached with a double sheet bend) once the sail is hoisted.
Most other replacement spars will have the halyard attached to a swivel at the peak of the sail and fall internally, exiting via a sheave near the foot of the mast.
6mm quite adequate.
The main halyard would originally have fallen internally, exiting via a sheave at or near the base of the mast.
6mm is adequate for both foresail and mainsail halyards. In fact 8mm is too large for the original exit sheaves.
The original topping lift was lighter than 6mm ( 5 mm???)
The building instructions, which are available from the Sea Wych shop, contain the original rigging instructions The drawings which came with the building instructions can be found on my Photobucket account at http://s50.photobucket.com/user/Vic43/l ... t=9&page=1
Original sheets were 10 mm.
Two ordinary two horned cleats were originally supplied for the foresail sheets to mount on the outside of the coamings. I have fitted a pair of lateral Clamcleats on top of the coamings
Image
The original bottom main sheet block incorporated a simple jaw cam cleat. I added a fairlead.
Vic
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paulaston
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:28 pm
Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by paulaston » Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:32 am
Many thanks again Vic - lots for me to take in there, I will study this properly later. My thinking at the moment is that I need to buy the bushes from the SWOA shop and have a 4mm stay professionally replaced using the new bushes by someone suitably qualified with the correct tools and materials.
I have the build instructions, which I purchased from the Sea Wych Shop. The diagrams were not included with that document and the shop do not appear to have immediate access to copies of these, so thank you for providing them.
I don't know whether or not I have a Cooney spar or not. Here is a link to some pictures of each end of the forestay:
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/paulaston7046/library/
From these pictures, is it possible to work out what setup I have and as to whether or not it has been modified? I can take more pictures later if needed. Apologies for the background - a frayed stay doesn't stand out too well with grass as the background!
I have also included a picture of The Great Escape, SW226. What I don't know is if this is the correct sail number or not. It is the sail number on the main sail, but the previous owner was unable to confirm whether or not the sails he provided as part of the sale are the original sails. The previous owner had registered with the Sea Wych Owner's Association under this sail number and I have taken over that registration. Does the picture at the above link provide any indication as to whether or The Great Escape is the age indicated by the sail number? And is it possible to ascertain what age that is? Unfortunately I do not have any history prior to the previous owner.
Thanks,
Paul.
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rig
Post by Vic » Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:53 pm
I can tell from the pictures that you have a Cooney reefing spar. No doubt about that. So the instructions for the halyard to return down the spar to the second fixing point on the top of the drum apply.
The top and bottom bushes will have to be drilled out if you fit a larger diameter forestay. Similarly the split bearing block if you use a Talurit splice.
I notice from the pictures of the rigged boat that the boom appears to droop ! This suggests that the mast is raked aft. It should be vertical. Perhaps if you shorten in on the bottle screw maybe also fit a smaller shackle ( or better a toggle) and at the same time extend the backstays with toggles if necessary you will be able to get the mast upright.
As for the sail number. 226 would have been a boat with a white hull and grey superstructure. If yours is in fact red and white then it is much later than 226. I don't know exactly when the colour scheme changed. During the high 300s I think although the changeover may have been blurred by the fact that the sail numbers were not issued in strict order , or so rumour has it.
Vic
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christopherphillips
Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 11:14 pm
Re: Component specification of and setup for Sea Wych 19 rigging
Post by christopherphillips » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:50 pm
Inside My Cooney Spar
I wanted to change my cable to 4mm but I wanted to know what was likely to block me inside. I drilled the rivets but could not part the two halves without potential damage so I shoved my camera probe up both ends and sure enough the bearing mentioned by Vic was certainly there at the top end quite secure. I took another photo from the bottom and it shows the stainless sleeve holding the two halves together....The small object is one of the drilled rivets that I will flush out. My sail is SW416
ATTACHMENTS
Boat_Foil_Bottom.jpg
Boat_Foil_Bottom.jpg (207.16 KiB) Viewed 65 times
Boat_Foil_Top.jpg
Boat_Foil_Top.jpg (202.96 KiB) Viewed 65 times
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Goose Neck and Some
Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Thu Aug 31, 2017 11:44 am
Hi All New Member here looking for advice/assistance, possibly bits and bobs
I have just picked up a new project, Seawych (Puffin) if anyone has any history of her kindly share as nothing is currently known as it was left for scrapping with no documentation etc.
Literally just got her so will be cleaning from tip to toe as first job just to see whats what!
Bit of a mess but nothing that hopefully can't be sorted touch wood.
Ideally a basic guide book with lots of diagrams and ideally photos would help considerably and save a lot of guessing.
Most of the Rigging appears to be there less a few deck turn buckle screws (if not a bit tatty), but i am in need of some close up pictures of how the boom attaches at the goose neck area it just doesn't look correct. Well at least to my untrained eye. Looks like a square pin from the mast slides into the boom but it has no retaining bolts just an empty hole on boom with a large diameter screw thread, nothing to go into it?? Odd.
Also it has sails but no idea if they are correct the main has no cars are these readily available to be added?
Inside is basically an empty shell but the main hull appears water tight although I guess until she is finally put into water we just won't know 100%.
Small steps but determined to get her back in the game within a reasonable budget.
Thanks for any advice or suggestions good or bad rgds
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IMG_1675.JPG
IMG_1675.JPG (57.58 KiB) Viewed 58 times
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:51 pm
Hi,
The owners manual(on line on the website) will be useful, maybe also the building instructions.
I have photos which will help answer some of your questions but stuck in hospital at the moment
Will get back to you when I can
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Fri Sep 01, 2017 7:31 pm
Vic
Thanks for reply.
I've had a look at the online manual and can't find the goose neck pictures that I definitely need.
Photos would be great or a day out to have a look at a finished boat itself. I've been trawling marinas near me to no avail.
Hope you have a speedy recovery.
Rgds Steve
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:39 am
Hi again
The photos of the goose neck fitting below might help but I don't recognise anything from your description
Regarding the sail. Many boats had mainsails with a bolt rope rather than sail slugs (Mine does not have slugs) You could fit the sail with slugs if you feel it would be any advantage ( I don't) . They are readily available. IIRC the smallest of the Alan range at http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item_det ... d=29&id=92 are the right size
Image
Image
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:49 pm
Thanks
Mine definitely doesn't look like that but can't say for certain until I can get to the boat in a cpl of weeks. But will definitely post pics for comment.
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Mon Sep 18, 2017 3:18 pm
Vic
please see pictures of the boom end and metal rod that slides into boom from mast just looks odd to me but can't seem to find any pictures elsewhere
rgds Steve
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IMG_1811.JPG
IMG_1811.JPG (30.74 KiB) Viewed 34 times
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IMG_1810.jpeg (22.72 KiB) Viewed 34 times
IMG_1809.jpeg
IMG_1809.jpeg (22.44 KiB) Viewed 34 times
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:02 pm
It rather looks like the original Sea Wych boom from which the Barton roller reefing gear and goose fitting have been removed and a dinghy type reefing system fitted. Maybe the old one failed resulting in the rather unsatisfactory arraignment you now see. I take it that pin and the hole in the end fitting are square.
I suggest you have reefing points fitted in the sail adopt some form of slab reefing.
I converted to slab reefing years ago, although I maintain the roller gear in working order just in case
Sorry if replies are slow coming. I find myself in University College London Hospital for perhaps a lengthy stay
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:49 pm
Any idea on where I would get a new setup to replace the one that is on this boom? I guess they're not too common!!
Rgds Steve
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:12 am
Sorry not to have replied sooner . Something seems to have gone wrong with my email notification of new posts .
Equally sorry I cannot help.
Keep a look out for a boom with all the fittings for sale by someone who has re rigged.
Boat jumbles perhaps. anywhere that sells second hand gear, corners of boatyards or anywhere an old boom might have been abandoned.
Put a wanted ad' in the magazine.
Vic
Brave Dragon
Visit the Yatching and Boating World forums
Post by stevemartin » Thu Aug 31, 2017 11:44 am
Hi All New Member here looking for advice/assistance, possibly bits and bobs
I have just picked up a new project, Seawych (Puffin) if anyone has any history of her kindly share as nothing is currently known as it was left for scrapping with no documentation etc.
Literally just got her so will be cleaning from tip to toe as first job just to see whats what!
Bit of a mess but nothing that hopefully can't be sorted touch wood.
Ideally a basic guide book with lots of diagrams and ideally photos would help considerably and save a lot of guessing.
Most of the Rigging appears to be there less a few deck turn buckle screws (if not a bit tatty), but i am in need of some close up pictures of how the boom attaches at the goose neck area it just doesn't look correct. Well at least to my untrained eye. Looks like a square pin from the mast slides into the boom but it has no retaining bolts just an empty hole on boom with a large diameter screw thread, nothing to go into it?? Odd.
Also it has sails but no idea if they are correct the main has no cars are these readily available to be added?
Inside is basically an empty shell but the main hull appears water tight although I guess until she is finally put into water we just won't know 100%.
Small steps but determined to get her back in the game within a reasonable budget.
Thanks for any advice or suggestions good or bad rgds
ATTACHMENTS
IMG_1675.JPG
IMG_1675.JPG (57.58 KiB) Viewed 58 times
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:51 pm
Hi,
The owners manual(on line on the website) will be useful, maybe also the building instructions.
I have photos which will help answer some of your questions but stuck in hospital at the moment
Will get back to you when I can
Vic
Brave Dragon
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Fri Sep 01, 2017 7:31 pm
Vic
Thanks for reply.
I've had a look at the online manual and can't find the goose neck pictures that I definitely need.
Photos would be great or a day out to have a look at a finished boat itself. I've been trawling marinas near me to no avail.
Hope you have a speedy recovery.
Rgds Steve
Top
Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:39 am
Hi again
The photos of the goose neck fitting below might help but I don't recognise anything from your description
Regarding the sail. Many boats had mainsails with a bolt rope rather than sail slugs (Mine does not have slugs) You could fit the sail with slugs if you feel it would be any advantage ( I don't) . They are readily available. IIRC the smallest of the Alan range at http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item_det ... d=29&id=92 are the right size
Image
Image
Vic
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:49 pm
Thanks
Mine definitely doesn't look like that but can't say for certain until I can get to the boat in a cpl of weeks. But will definitely post pics for comment.
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Mon Sep 18, 2017 3:18 pm
Vic
please see pictures of the boom end and metal rod that slides into boom from mast just looks odd to me but can't seem to find any pictures elsewhere
rgds Steve
ATTACHMENTS
IMG_1811.JPG
IMG_1811.JPG (30.74 KiB) Viewed 34 times
IMG_1810.jpeg
IMG_1810.jpeg (22.72 KiB) Viewed 34 times
IMG_1809.jpeg
IMG_1809.jpeg (22.44 KiB) Viewed 34 times
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Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:02 pm
It rather looks like the original Sea Wych boom from which the Barton roller reefing gear and goose fitting have been removed and a dinghy type reefing system fitted. Maybe the old one failed resulting in the rather unsatisfactory arraignment you now see. I take it that pin and the hole in the end fitting are square.
I suggest you have reefing points fitted in the sail adopt some form of slab reefing.
I converted to slab reefing years ago, although I maintain the roller gear in working order just in case
Sorry if replies are slow coming. I find myself in University College London Hospital for perhaps a lengthy stay
Vic
Brave Dragon
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stevemartin
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by stevemartin » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:49 pm
Any idea on where I would get a new setup to replace the one that is on this boom? I guess they're not too common!!
Rgds Steve
Top
Vic
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Home: Kent, Boat:Solent
Re: Goose Neck and Some!!
Post by Vic » Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:12 am
Sorry not to have replied sooner . Something seems to have gone wrong with my email notification of new posts .
Equally sorry I cannot help.
Keep a look out for a boom with all the fittings for sale by someone who has re rigged.
Boat jumbles perhaps. anywhere that sells second hand gear, corners of boatyards or anywhere an old boom might have been abandoned.
Put a wanted ad' in the magazine.
Vic
Brave Dragon
Visit the Yatching and Boating World forums